Como to Lecco along the lake
A ride along the eastern shore of Lake Como, from Como to Lecco, with views of Bellagio and the mountains around the lake.
I genuinely love riding this route. It isn’t particularly challenging and doesn’t require years of experience, with one exception: it can get seriously busy. Lake Como draws huge numbers of tourists, and the Italians who know the road inside out tend to drive accordingly. Stay alert, because they’ll happily overtake right before a blind bend, simply because they already know what’s waiting on the other side.
The ride hugs the water almost the entire way: the SP583, better known as the "Lariana", a narrow road built between 1911 and 1917 into the rock face on the eastern shore of the lake’s Como branch. From Como you pass through Blevio, Torno and Nesso on the way to Bellagio, after which the road continues south along the Lecco branch to Lecco itself. Because the road sits higher up the hillside rather than right at the water’s edge, you get constant wide views over the lake and the pastel-coloured villages along the shore, but finding a terrace right along the road itself is a touch harder than you’d expect. Down in the lakeside villages, like Cernobbio or Malgrate, there’s plenty of choice.
Elevation profile
Stops & viewpoints
- 1Orrido di NessoAt the village of Nesso, a waterfall drops some 200 metres through a narrow gorge, spanned by the centuries-old Ponte della Civera.
- 2BellagioThe "pearl of Lake Como", sitting exactly where the lake splits into the branch towards Como and the one towards Lecco.
- 3MalgrateThe redone lakefront with terraced water steps and a view of Lecco across the water; my favourite stop for pastries from Covo Pasticceria.
Based on the GPX track. Small deviations are normal.
Things to know about the Como to Lecco along the lake
Views in abundance, terraces right along the road in short supply
You ride with Lake Como in view for almost the whole route: open water, the mountains around it and pastel-coloured houses along the shore. Because of that, stopping for food or a drink right along the road itself can be trickier than expected: the road sits higher up the hillside rather than right next to the water. Down in the lakeside villages, like Cernobbio near the start or Malgrate just before Lecco, there’s plenty of choice again.
Malgrate: my favourite stop, with pastries from Covo
During my first solo motorcycle trip to Italy I stayed overnight in Malgrate, right before Lecco, and it stuck with me. Its lakefront has been redone with terraced water steps that bridge the level difference between the road and the lake; I sat there for ages with my feet in the water, just people-watching, with Lecco in view across the water. There’s no shortage of restaurants with a lake view, and at Covo Pasticceria on the little square I’d always pick up small pastries: a mini tiramisu in a cup, and lemon and raspberry tarts.
Cernobbio, a lovely overnight stop just across the lake
Cernobbio was my other overnight stop during that first solo trip, just on the western shore near the starting point of Como, so worth a short detour if you turn this into a multi-day trip. The little church with its bell tower and the small harbour stuck with me most, along with the many gelato stands and wide choice of restaurants.
A 200-metre gorge, already described by Da Vinci
At the village of Nesso, roughly halfway between Como and Bellagio, a waterfall drops some 200 metres through a narrow gorge, the Orrido di Nesso. A centuries-old stone arch bridge, the Ponte della Civera, spans the gorge right next to the waterfall. Leonardo da Vinci already described the spot in his Codex Atlanticus.
Built between 1911 and 1917
The road you’re riding is the SP583, nicknamed the "Lariana". The stretch between Como and Bellagio was largely built between 1911 and 1917, though it only became a state road in 1969. The extension past Lecco wasn’t added until 1990, and since 2001 the provinces of Como and Lecco have managed the road.
The "pearl of Lake Como"
Bellagio sits exactly where the lake splits into two branches, one towards Como, the other towards Lecco. That setting, combined with its grand villas and colourful alleyways, earned the town its nickname: "the pearl of Lake Como".
Practical info on the road
Locals know every bend by heart
The SP583 is narrow, winding and barely has a hard shoulder. Local drivers ride this road daily and will happily overtake right before a blind bend, simply because they already know exactly what’s coming. Keep that in mind and give them room.
Avoid weekends and high season
Lake Como suffers from overtourism: from late May through September, weekend traffic between Como and Bellagio can already be backed up by mid-morning, with tour coaches taking up a large share of the narrow road. Leave early or avoid weekends for a smoother ride.
Bellagio, Nesso or Malgrate are your best bets for a stop
Because the road mostly runs higher above the water, places to eat or drink right along the road itself are more spread out than you’d expect. Bellagio, Nesso by the Orrido, and Malgrate just before Lecco are the reliable stops along the way; for something sweet, Covo Pasticceria on Malgrate’s lakefront is well worth it.
Short, narrow tunnels cut into the rock
Along the way you’ll pass several short tunnels cut straight into the rock face, often just one lane wide and poorly lit. Take your sunglasses off and watch for oncoming traffic.
On the road on the Como to Lecco along the lake
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