The Great Dolomites Road
A long ride from Bolzano to Cortina d’Ampezzo via the quieter side of the Dolomites, with Passo Pordoi as the only Sella Ronda pass.
Two years ago I rode through here solo, right in the middle of the classic Dolomite passes: Sella Ronda, Val Gardena, mass tourism in full swing. People randomly stopping in the middle of the road for a photo, tour coaches squeezing through hairpin bends, and a level of traffic that almost overshadowed the breathtaking scenery.
This time, in 2026, we mapped out a completely different route. From Bolzano we took the Passo di Costalunga and the turquoise Lago di Carezza into Val di Fassa, instead of the busier road through Val Gardena. We stayed overnight in Pozza di Fassa, and the next day rode on past Canazei to the Passo Pordoi, the only pass of the famous Sella Ronda we still crossed. From Arabba we deliberately turned off the direct (and busy) road to Cortina via the Falzarego: we dropped into the quiet Agordino, over the Passo Duran into Val di Zoldo, through Longarone and up the Cadore valley to Cortina d’Ampezzo. On the longer stretches we were practically riding alone here, a world of difference from two years earlier.
Pozza di Fassa turned out to be a great place to stay: a cosy, not too large mountain village with plenty of terraces and small restaurants to choose from. There’s also QC Termedolomiti within walking distance, a wellness spa with a stunning view of some of the finest Dolomite peaks; I did it myself and can recommend it to anyone. I’m a sucker for wellness days in different places around the world anyway.
Elevation profile
Stops & viewpoints
- 1Lago di CarezzaA turquoise glacial lake right by the Passo di Costalunga, famous for reflecting the Latemar massif. Legend has it a sorcerer once smashed his rainbow-coloured jewellery here and threw it into the lake.
- 2Passo Pordoi (via Canazei)The highest point of the route, and the only Sella Ronda pass we still crossed before deliberately turning off the busy road to Cortina at Arabba.
- 3Passo DuranThe quiet detour through the Agordino: this pass takes you from the Agordo valley into Val di Zoldo, well away from the crowds around the Falzarego.
Based on the GPX track. Small deviations are normal.
Things to know about the The Great Dolomites Road
From mass tourism to empty roads
Two years ago I rode solo through the Dolomites, right in the middle of the Sella Ronda and Val Gardena: constant braking for traffic, people randomly stopping for a photo, and buses squeezing through the hairpins. This route, which we mapped out in 2026, deliberately avoids that same crowding, and it felt completely different as a result.
Pozza di Fassa and QC Termedolomiti
Pozza di Fassa is a small, cosy mountain village with more than enough terraces and small restaurants. QC Termedolomiti is within walking distance, a wellness spa with a stunning view of several Dolomite peaks, a real recommendation that I did myself. I’m a sucker for wellness days in different places around the world anyway.
Built as a showcase for tourism
The "Grande Strada delle Dolomiti" was built between 1897 and 1909 on the initiative of Austrian entrepreneur Theodor Christomannos, who wanted to turn the Dolomites into an international tourist destination. The road connects Bolzano with Cortina d’Ampezzo.
The legend of the rainbow lake
Lago di Carezza is known in Ladin folklore as the "lake of the rainbow". A sorcerer is said to have crafted a necklace with every colour of the rainbow to win over a water nymph, but when she saw through his disguise, he furiously smashed the necklace and threw it into the lake.
Practical info on the road
Fill up before the Agordino
Between Arabba and Longarone, through the Agordino and Val di Zoldo, fuel stations are spaced further apart than around the classic passes. Fill up in Arabba or Agordo before continuing.
A break in Pozza di Fassa
Pozza di Fassa has more than enough terraces and small restaurants for a break or an overnight stay, and QC Termedolomiti is within walking distance, a wellness spa with a stunning view of the Dolomites.
Leave early for the Pordoi
Even on this route, the Passo Pordoi remains the busiest stretch. Leave early to ride it while it’s still relatively quiet, before turning onto the calmer side of the route at Arabba.
A full day on the bike
At 223 kilometres and over 4,000 metres of climbing, this is a full day out. Expect fast-changing weather on the passes and plan plenty of breaks.
Cara's tip
Pick this route if you want the Dolomites without the crowds
If you want the absolute postcard views of the Sella Ronda, there’s no avoiding Val Gardena and the crowds that come with it. If instead you want to actually enjoy the Dolomites without constantly braking for campers and photo stops, take this detour via Costalunga, the Agordino and the Cadore valley. You’ll miss surprisingly little of the scenery, and gain a lot of peace and quiet.
On the road on the The Great Dolomites Road
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